Alkanet Root Lip Gloss Recipe

Alkanet root is a beautiful plant ally for natural color, imparting deep ruby to burgundy hues when infused into oil. It offers a way to bring color and personality into lip balms and herbal cosmetics using plants rather than synthetic pigments. Dyer’s alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) is a small flowering plant native to the Mediterranean. While it produces delicate blue flowers, it is the roots that have been prized for centuries for their rich color.

These roots contain pigment compounds called alkannin and shikonin, which are responsible for the range of violet, blue, and red tones alkanet is known for. Because these compounds are oil-soluble, alkanet lends itself especially well to infused oils used in body care. Historically, it has been used as a natural dye, particularly for purples that were once rare and highly valued, as well as in traditional skin preparations and for adding color to oils, salves, and cosmetics.

One of the most interesting aspects of alkanet is how its color shifts depending on extraction. The red tones are drawn out into oil, while the blue tones are more soluble in alcohol. When we infuse alkanet into oil for lip balm, we are working with its deep, warming red spectrum.

• Alkanet creates a sheer wash of color—buildable depending on infusion strength

• More concentrated oil = deeper tint

• Color may shift slightly depending on your oils, butters, and pH

• Lower, gentle heat helps preserve brighter tones

• Pairs beautifully with a touch of mica if you want added shimmer and color

You can easily adjust the depth of color by changing the amount of alkanet root in your infusion:

• Light tint:
   ~1 teaspoon alkanet root : 2–3 Tablespoons oil

• Medium tint (most versatile):
   ~1 Tablespoon root : 2–3 Tablespoons oil

• Deep tint:
   1–2 Tablespoons root : 2 Tablespoons oil

Note: Your oil should be a deep red-purple tone. Alkanet is sensitive to heat and conditions—keep temperatures low and steady to preserve its vibrant color.

A soft, luminous lip gloss that brings together the beauty & luxury of Rose Otto essential oil and the earthy color of Alkanet Root. This blend leans more gloss than balm—silky, slightly sheer, with a gentle tint and shimmer.

1 Tablespoon Castor oil 

1 Tablespoon Organic Carrier Oil (Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Plantain Infused Oil or your favorite carrier oil)  

1 teaspoon Alkanet-infused oil (follow recipe above)

1 teaspoon Cocoa Butter (replace with shea butter for a softer more meltable feel, or tallow for a richer, more balm-like option)

½–1 teaspoon Beeswax (adjust for softer or firmer gloss)

¼–½ teaspoon Mica (adjust for desired shimmer + color)

1 drop Rose otto essential oil (Geranium or palmarosa are more affordable floral alternatives if you don’t have Rose Otto.)

In a double boiler, gently melt the cocoa butter (or shea butter/tallow) and beeswax.

Add castor oil and carrier oil of choice, stirring to combine.

Remove from heat and stir in alkanet-infused oil.

Add mica and mix thoroughly to disperse evenly.

Let cool slightly, then add rose essential oil.

Pour into gloss tubes or small jars/tins and allow to set.